t is written D’O, but can be read “cucina pop”, because Davide Oldani’s D’O restaurant in Cornaredo, in the province of Milan, has always had a more concrete and less random idea of cuisine: high-quality food without sky-high prices. At its foundation it relies on simplicity and outstanding raw materials—inside and outside its dishes. The new, more sophisticated, yet calming and familiar atmosphere with which the starred-chef Davide Oldani welcomes us after the forced closure of the lockdown is a testament to these ideas. In fact, his restaurant is reopening with a completely new look. The restyling, which comes from a collaboration between the chef and architect Piero Lissoni, was above all dictated by a practical need to reimagine spaces as a result of the Covid-19 emergency.
“The chef (Oldani) chose the blueprint of what would become the restaurant” explained Piero Lissoni, “I tried to follow his mental models and simply gave shape to the color.” It is well-known that Davide Oldani has always been a promoter of creative thinking in the kitchen: a sort of chef-designer (even if he doesn’t love being described as such) who often finds himself designing because, as he explained, “I need that one particular thing to carry out my work completely and precisely.” Indeed, even if the restyling only concerned some parts of the restaurant, he has left a mark everywhere. Especially in the kitchen where the chef expressly wanted marking on the floor to identify the chefs’ positions.
It was a simple but ingenious idea that figured out a way to transform a question of safety and social distancing into a strength. In order to ensure optimal hygiene, the walls and floors have been altered and covered in resin by Resìn, a leading brand in the sector and partner of Kerakoll, who had already supplied all of the building materials in 2016 (the year of the founding of the restaurant also designed by Lissoni).
Sanitizable, waterproof, uniform and free of grouting, resin is the perfect material because it is easily washed and has a velvety texture that immediately creates an enveloping and relaxing atmosphere where one can sit comfortably around a table or remain standing. It is not by chance that among Oldani’s offerings the Accomod’o seating by Riva1920 stands out. “At the table we sit, but by eating while standing we would have less digestion problems” remarked the chef. In order to give form to his idea, he not only worked with Riva1920, but also with medical professionals.
The atmosphere inside D’O is chic, refined, minimal and warm. Apart from the resin, the wood of the chairs and tables have been left “nude” and well-distanced on purpose; while the gray and neutral tones is mixed with accents of white in the perfect combination of warmth and conviviality.
The mission is clear: serving complete wellness. If on the one hand, Oldani prefers an ethical approach towards food and people, on the other he cares about offering an accessible service that avoids waste. Even a fantastic dinner at a restaurant can be an opportunity for educating about the culture of food and nutrition. As the chef says in his new book “Eat as you speak”.
Where: D’O, Piazza della Chiesa, 14, San Pietro all'Olmo, Cornaredo (MI)
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